08 July 2016 15:00:00
C.P. Company: Classic Textile Avant-Garde
Speaking of a crazy genius and his famous jackets with a high-mileage
In Italy, a heart of fashion industry, designers appreciate clothing’s beauty, elegance and history. Being among the best fashion designers means creating aesthetically ideal piece of art. BRANDSHOP tells the story of the man who changed world of fashion by giving clothes only one simple but ingenious feature: functionality.
FROM T-SHIRT TO COLLECTION
A designer Massimo Osti was born and raised in the capital of Italian cuisine – Bologna. Since early age he preferred buttons and t-shirts to carbonara and minestrone that’s why he got a job of in a local firm called Chester Perry Company in 1974. Because of the litigation with a famous English company with a laurel wreath on its logo the firm had to change its name into a well-known C.P. Company. After a successful collection of t-shirts with prints his colleague Trabaldo Togna suggested to make men’s collection and become his business partner. Over 40 years of the brand’s existence the company produced about 40.000 different items of clothing.
The northern part of Italy is famous for its cuisine and local producers. But due to its location and culture it was far from Milan, the world’s fashion capital. Osti was an opposite to what we call fashion. The Italian fashion designers are famous for making up some curious stories or even myths for their collection. But Osti rejected this approach and the word “designer” offended him. He was proud of his principle.
Unlike his colleges Osti never basked in the spotlight, put on a fashion show and referred to the lines of clothes as “collections”. He worked under true exclusive. Only twice a year he issued catalogues of new “clothes”. Massimo would never make a lookbook so there were no people, exotic places or studio lighting: only the ascetic pictures of the new styles of clothes. No keynote and no background, nothing. An aesthetical side of his works was less important for him than functionality and practical use which he put before everything else.
FROM PLANT TO CATWALK
Osti drew inspiration from everything he saw: military outfit, workwear, sportswear and casual street style. Thinking outside the box and avant-garde approach resulted in unique clothing. But it was not all. After the fabrication of jackets, t-shirts or whatever – all these things were sent to the dye-works where the newly invented fabrics were painted, printed, washed with stones and different solutions to get an exclusive item.
Fascinating, that C.P. Company is 8 years older than his brother Stone island. This incredible success of C.P. Company allowed Massimo to present an absolutely new brand with jackets made of canvas for military vehicles. Many inventions are behind Osti. One of the most significant is garment dying, a technology of dyeing a yield. Due to this method clothes acquires an unmistakable shade.
A THOUSAND MILES (MILLE MIGLIA)
In 1988, С.P. Company sponsored Mille Miglia – one of the most prestigious open-road races with vintage cars. Massimo Osti studied the detachable hoods of Japan Self-Defense Forces for a long time These hoods were meant to protect from gas attack: a front side was made of fabric with sewn-in lenses and respirator while a hood itself was fixed to a special drawcord on neck. Osti dreamt of these lenses becoming part of his jackets. Indeed, such solution met the requires of travellers, soldiers and sportsmen. “Built-in” glasses would be a good protection from rain and dirt providing us with a clear view. The pocket system in its turn would allow to keep all the essentials: papers, maps and provisions. Osti developed and presented it to the organizers and participants. The jacket with the conditional name Mille Miglia is associated with C.P. Company and is still produced in different varieties.
The designer himself was one of the first wearers of normcore style: Osti wore navy shirt by C.P. with Stone Island dark blue jeans. Massimo was among the first to process the fabrics with waterproof surfaces and cloth proofing. An elegant linen coat was covered by polyurethane making it as hard as rock. Dark blue denim shirts where bleached to change its colour and then finished them with enzymes. As a result such fabric was similar to silk. This is Massimo’s philosophy: luxury fabric was for him like a fade t-shirt while a fade t-shirt or just ordinary material were turned into luxury.
There are so many innovations Massimo introduced working with clothing that only can be compared with Dupont: Osti used four-color process, serigraphy, sandblasting and even copy machine. Initially, the designer did it on his own and it took a lot of time to explain the serigraphy process to the factory workers. In 1992 he invented Micro, a fabric received through the method of microfiber and nylon fibers pressing. Usually paper is produced in this way but such fabric looks like deerskin while breathing features of it are very impressive. A year later he launched clothing made of Thermojoint – a waterproof and hard-wearing fabric providing its owner with 80% protection from nuclear radiation.
Throughout many years on clothes’ labels there was a slogan “Ideas from Massimo Osti”. Indeed, each item he launched is about making the world better, the victory of use and style over fashion and wasting money on brands. C.P. Company is about future we have now.
C.P. CompanyMen's demi-season jacket Giacca Chrome Red
C.P. CompanyMen's sweatshirt Felpa Girocollo Navy
C.P. CompanyMen's T-shirt Stampa All Over White/Blue
C.P. CompanyMen's jeans 5 Pocket Slim Fit Indigo
C.P. CompanyMen's trousers Lungo Navy
C.P. CompanyBackpack Zaino Con Cappuccio Black
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